The "Big Island" of Hawaii

Big Island of Hawaii: Where Fire Meets Paradise

You know, I've been to a lot of tropical islands over the years, but nothing - and I mean nothing - prepares you for the Big Island of Hawaii. Officially called Hawaii Island (though everyone just calls it the Big Island to avoid confusion), this place is like Mother Nature decided to show off everything she could do on one single piece of land.

I still remember my first trip there, stepping off the plane in Kona and being hit by that dry heat and the smell of volcanic rock mixed with plumeria. It's intoxicating. And then you realize - this island is literally still being born. Pele, the volcano goddess, is still hard at work down there, creating new land every single day.

Two Sides of Paradise

Here's what blew my mind the first time I visited: you can literally drive from a tropical beach to a snow-capped mountain in about two hours. The Big Island has 11 of the world's 13 climate zones. I've gone from snorkeling in crystal-clear water to bundling up in a winter jacket on Mauna Kea in the same day. Try explaining that to folks back home!

The Kona Side (West Coast)

The Kona side is where most visitors spend their time, and for good reason. This is your classic Hawaiian paradise - sunny skies, beautiful beaches, and some of the best coffee in the world. I'm not kidding about that coffee - Kona coffee is the real deal, and once you've had it fresh from the source, everything else tastes like dishwater.

Kailua-Kona is the main hub, and it's got that perfect small-town Hawaiian feel. The waterfront is lined with restaurants where you can watch the sunset while sipping a mai tai (highly recommended). Magic Sands Beach right in town is perfect for bodyboarding - though fair warning, the sand does disappear sometimes during big swells. Hence the "magic" part.

But if you want the postcard-perfect beach experience, head south to Hapuna Beach. I've spent countless hours there, and it never gets old. The sand is white, the water is incredibly blue, and the boogie boarding is fantastic. Just watch out for the occasional Portuguese man-of-war - they're not fun to encounter.

The Hilo Side (East Coast)

The Hilo side is completely different - lush, green, and often rainy. This is where you'll find the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden, Rainbow Falls, and some of the most spectacular waterfalls you've ever seen. Akaka Falls drops 442 feet, and when you're standing there looking up at it, you feel pretty small in the best possible way.

Hilo itself is this charming, sleepy town that feels like old Hawaii. The farmers market on Wednesday and Saturday mornings is incredible - tropical fruits I'd never heard of, fresh fish, and local crafts. I always stock up on apple bananas and rambutan when I'm there.

Volcanoes National Park: The Main Event

Let me tell you about Hawaii Volcanoes National Park - it's unlike anywhere else on Earth. I've been there during active eruptions and during quiet periods, and both are absolutely mesmerizing. You're literally walking on some of the youngest land on the planet.

The Kilauea Crater is the star of the show. This thing has been erupting almost continuously since 1983, though it goes through active and quiet phases. When it's active and you can see the lava lake glowing at night - man, that's something that'll stick with you forever. I've seen grown adults cry just from the sheer power and beauty of it.

The Chain of Craters Road is a drive you'll never forget. It takes you from the crater down to where the lava meets the sea (when it's flowing). I've done this drive probably twenty times, and I still get goosebumps. You're driving through this otherworldly landscape of black rock and steam vents. It's like visiting another planet.

Pro tip from someone who's learned the hard way: bring layers. It can be 85 degrees at sea level and 45 degrees at the volcano's elevation. And for the love of all that's holy, respect the barriers. Lava is not something to mess around with.

The Mauna Kea Experience

If you do one thing on the Big Island besides visit the volcano, make it a trip to Mauna Kea. At nearly 14,000 feet, it's the world's tallest mountain when measured from its base on the ocean floor. The summit is home to some of the world's most important astronomical observatories.

The sunset from up there is indescribable. You're literally above the clouds, watching the sun disappear into the Pacific while the lights of the observatories start to twinkle around you. Then comes the stargazing - with virtually no light pollution and the thin atmosphere, you can see the Milky Way so clearly it looks like someone spilled diamonds across the sky.

Fair warning though - the drive up requires a 4WD vehicle, and the altitude can affect some people. Take your time, bring warm clothes, and maybe skip the scuba diving for 24 hours before and after.

Getting Around the Island

The Big Island is, well, big. It's larger than all the other Hawaiian islands combined. Renting a car is absolutely essential - don't even think about trying to see the island without one. The drive from Kona to Hilo is about 2.5 hours through some of the most diverse landscapes you'll ever see.

The roads are generally good, but some of the back roads to waterfalls and remote beaches can be rough. I've bottomed out rental cars more times than I care to admit chasing that perfect hidden beach.

Where to Stay

You've got options on both sides of the island. The Kona side has more resorts and is generally sunnier and drier. The Mauna Kea Beach Hotel and the Fairmont Orchid are both spectacular if you're looking to splurge. For something more budget-friendly, there are plenty of condos and smaller hotels in Kailua-Kona.

The Hilo side is quieter and more affordable, but you'll deal with more rain. It's perfect if you're planning to spend most of your time exploring the volcano and waterfalls.

The Food Scene

The Big Island's food scene is incredible and often overlooked. This is where you'll find some of the freshest fish in Hawaii - the boats come right into Kona Harbor with their catch. The poke here is ridiculous - I'm talking melt-in-your-mouth ahi that was swimming that morning.

Don't miss the local beef either. Hawaiian cattle ranching has a long history here, and the grass-fed beef is some of the best I've ever had. And those Kona coffee farms? Many offer tours where you can see the whole process from bean to cup.

Things I Wish I'd Known

After dozens of visits, here are some hard-learned lessons:

• The Big Island can be surprisingly cool, especially at elevation. Pack layers.
• Reef-safe sunscreen is required by law and good for the environment.
• Many of the best snorkeling spots require a bit of hiking to reach.
• The island operates on "Island Time" - everything moves a bit slower, and that's part of the charm.
• Respect the land and the culture. This is sacred ground to Native Hawaiians.

Keck Observatory at
the Mauna Kea summit

On the Big Island, there are plenty of things to see and do, including hiking and climbing.

The picture to the right is of a small stream on the Hamakua Coast.

Why I Keep Coming Back

The Big Island gets into your soul in a way that's hard to explain. Maybe it's the raw power of creation you witness at the volcano. Maybe it's the incredible diversity - desert, rainforest, snow-capped peaks, and perfect beaches all on one island. Or maybe it's just that feeling of being connected to something ancient and powerful.

I've watched this island literally grow before my eyes as new lava creates new land. I've seen sunrise from above the clouds and swum with manta rays under the stars. I've tasted coffee that made me rethink everything I thought I knew about coffee, and I've met people whose families have called this rock home for generations.

The Big Island isn't just about beautiful beaches and mai tais (though it has those too). It's about witnessing the raw power of nature, about understanding your place in something much bigger than yourself. It's about standing at the edge of an active volcano and feeling completely humbled by the forces that created these islands.

Every time I leave, I'm already planning my next trip back. There's always something new to discover, some hidden waterfall or secluded beach I haven't found yet. The Big Island has this way of making you feel like an explorer, like you're the first person to see something incredible.

So if you're thinking about visiting Hawaii and you want something beyond the typical resort experience, the Big Island is calling your name. Just be warned - it might just ruin you for every other tropical destination. In the best possible way.

And don't forget to throw a lei into Kilauea for Pele. It's tradition, and hey, better safe than sorry when it comes to volcano goddesses. Right? ; )

Oahu  *  Maui  *  "Big Island" of Hawaii  *  Kauai  *  Molokai  *  Lanai 
St Thomas  *  St John  *  St Croix  *  Key Largo  *  Key West  *  Puerto Rico  *  Guam 

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