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Here today, gone to Maui ...
I know you've heard it before, but it's still a saying that, for me,
conjures up tropical images and romantic feelings that are
kinda hard to resist ...
(and just why should I resist?!?)
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Maui: The Valley Isle That Stole My Heart
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First, a little Island info ...
If someone told me I could only visit one Hawaiian island for the rest of my life, I'd probably pick Maui. Now, before my Oahu and Big Island friends get their feathers ruffled, let me explain. Maui has this perfect balance - it's got the beaches that'll make you weep with joy, mountains that'll take your breath away, and just enough civilization to keep you comfortable without losing that authentic Hawaiian feel.
They call it the "Valley Isle" because of the valley between Maui's two volcanic mountains - Haleakala and the West Maui Mountains. But after visiting dozens of times over the past 25 years, I think of it as the "Just Right Isle." Everything here seems perfectly proportioned, like someone designed the ideal tropical island and then actually built it.
At 727 square miles, Maui is the second-largest Hawaiian island, but it feels more intimate than Oahu and more accessible than the Big Island. You can drive from one end to the other in a couple of hours (though trust me, you'll want to stop constantly), and yet there's enough diversity to keep you exploring for weeks.
A Little History to Set the Scene
Maui was named after the Polynesian demigod who, according to legend, fished the Hawaiian islands up from the sea. The first Polynesian settlers arrived around 300-400 AD, and they found paradise - fertile valleys, abundant fish, and a climate that made agriculture easy.
European contact came in 1778 when Captain Cook arrived, but it was the whaling era that really put Maui on the map. From the 1820s through the 1860s, Lahaina was the Pacific whaling capital. Ships would stop here to resupply, and let me tell you, those sailors knew how to pick a port. The town was wild and woolly - so much so that missionaries arrived to try to civilize things.
Later came the sugar plantations, which dominated Maui's economy for over a century. The last sugar plantation closed in 2016, ending an era but opening new possibilities. Today, tourism drives the economy, but you can still see remnants of that agricultural heritage everywhere - from the old plantation towns to the irrigation systems that now water golf courses instead of cane fields.
The Beaches: Where Dreams Come True
Let's start with what brings most people to Maui - the beaches. I've been to beaches all over the world, and Maui's still leave me speechless.
Wailea Beach is where I go when I want to feel like royalty. This crescent of golden sand fronts some of the most luxurious resorts on the island, and the swimming conditions are nearly perfect year-round. I remember my first time here - I spent three hours just floating in water so clear and warm it felt like a giant bathtub. The only downside? Everything nearby is expensive, but sometimes you've got to splurge.
Makena Beach (locals call it "Big Beach") lives up to its nickname. This massive stretch of sand is perfect for long walks, body surfing, and people watching. Just be careful of the shorebreak - it's powerful and has humbled more than a few overconfident swimmers (myself included on my second visit).
Napili Bay is my go-to recommendation for families. The beach is small and protected, perfect for kids, with gentle waves and soft sand. Plus, the snorkeling around the rocky edges is surprisingly good. I've seen green sea turtles here more often than anywhere else on Maui.
But here's a secret that took me years to discover: Baldwin Beach Park. It's on the north shore, away from the resort areas, and it's where the locals go. The beach is wide, the swimming is good when conditions are right, and you'll actually hear more Hawaiian pidgin than mainland accents. Pack a lunch and spend the day - you'll feel like you've discovered the real Maui.
Haleakala: The House of the Sun
No trip to Maui is complete without visiting Haleakala National Park. This massive volcanic crater - 7 miles across and 2,600 feet deep - is unlike anything you'll see anywhere else on Earth. The summit sits at 10,023 feet, which means you can go from sea level to above the clouds in about two hours of driving.
I've done the sunrise drive more times than I can count, and it never gets old. But here's what nobody tells you: it's COLD up there. I'm talking 40-degree temperatures, howling winds, and if you're unlucky, freezing rain. Pack layers - lots of them. I learned this the hard way on my third visit when I showed up in shorts and a t-shirt like some mainland tourist (which, to be fair, I was).
The sunrise itself is spectacular - watching the sun emerge from the clouds while you're standing above them is a spiritual experience. But here's a tip that'll save you some frustration: make reservations. The park now requires advance reservations for sunrise viewing, and they sell out quickly during peak season.
If you're not a morning person (or can't get sunrise reservations), don't worry. Sunset from Haleakala is equally beautiful, and you don't need reservations. Plus, you can sleep in.
The drive down is an adventure in itself. The road has more switchbacks than a political campaign, and your ears will pop constantly as you descend. Take your time, pull over at the scenic overlooks, and enjoy one of the most beautiful drives in America.
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The Road to Hana: An Adventure, Not a Destination
Ah, the Road to Hana. This 52-mile stretch of winding coastal highway is probably the most famous drive in Hawaii, and it's either going to be the highlight of your trip or drive you absolutely crazy. Maybe both.
I've driven it dozens of times, and here's what I've learned: it's not about Hana. The town itself is tiny and, honestly, not that exciting. It's about the journey - 620 curves, 59 bridges, and some of the most stunning scenery you'll ever see.
The waterfalls along the way are incredible. Wailua Falls is easily accessible and perfect for photos. Seven Sacred Pools (though locals prefer "Ohe'o Gulch") at Kipahulu is worth the extra drive beyond Hana. I've spent hours here just listening to the water and watching the pools cascade into each other.
But here's the thing about the Road to - it's not for everyone. If you get carsick easily, suffer from anxiety about narrow roads, or are traveling with impatient companions, it might be more stress than enjoyment. The road is narrow, winding, and can be crowded with tourists driving slowly and stopping constantly.
My advice? Start early (like 7 AM early), pack snacks and water, and embrace the journey. Don't try to make good time - you can't and you shouldn't. Pull over frequently, let faster traffic pass, and remember that you're not just driving, you're experiencing one of the world's most beautiful coastal routes.
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Lahaina: Where History Comes Alive
Old Lahaina Town is a fascinating blend of history and tourism that somehow works. This former whaling capital has been transformed into a shopping and dining destination, but if you know where to look, you can still feel the old Hawaii.
The Lahaina Banyan Tree is one of the largest banyan trees in the United States, planted in 1873 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Christian missions in Hawaii. It's massive - covering nearly an acre - and provides welcome shade in the often-scorching Lahaina heat.
Front Street is the main drag, lined with art galleries, restaurants, and shops. Yes, it's touristy, but it's also fun. I always stop at the Lahaina Scrimshaw shop - even if you're not buying, the carved whale bone artwork is incredible.
For a dose of history, visit the Old Lahaina Courthouse. It houses a small museum that tells the story of Lahaina's whaling days, complete with artifacts and stories that bring the era to life. It's free, air-conditioned, and fascinating.
But here's a warning: parking in Lahaina is a nightmare. The lots fill up early, street parking is limited, and it's all expensive. My strategy is to get there early (before 10 AM) or late (after 4 PM) when it's less crazy.
Upcountry Maui: A Different World
One of Maui's best-kept secrets is the upcountry region - the slopes of Haleakala between about 2,000 and 4,000 feet elevation. This area feels more like Northern California than Hawaii, with rolling green hills, working ranches, and a cooler climate that's a welcome break from the beach heat.
Makawao is the unofficial capital of upcountry, a former plantation town that's now home to artists, cowboys (yes, really), and people who want to live in Hawaii but not on the beach. The town has a great Saturday farmers market and some excellent restaurants.
Kula is where much of Hawaii's produce is grown. The rich volcanic soil and perfect climate create ideal growing conditions. During the right season, you can visit lavender farms, pick your own strawberries, or tour organic farms.
The drive through upcountry is beautiful and offers incredible views of the central valley and the West Maui Mountains. It's also a great way to escape the crowds and heat of the coastal areas.
Where to Stay: My Hard-Learned Lessons
I've stayed all over Maui, from budget condos to luxury resorts, and location matters more than you might think. Here's my breakdown of the major areas:
Wailea is the luxury option - beautiful resorts, perfect beaches, and price tags to match. The Grand Wailea is over-the-top in the best possible way, while the Fairmont Kea Lani offers spacious suites that are perfect for families. Expect to pay resort prices for everything.
Kaanapali offers great beaches and several resort options at slightly lower prices than Wailea. The Sheraton Maui sits right on Black Rock, while the Hyatt Regency Maui has pools that are destinations in themselves.
Kahana/Napili is my favorite area for condos. You're still on great beaches but away from the resort crowds. The Napili Kai Beach Resort is old-school Hawaii charm at its best.
Kihei offers the best value, especially for condos. The beaches aren't as pristine as Wailea, but they're perfectly fine, and you'll save hundreds per night. Just avoid the properties right on South Kihei Road - the traffic noise can be brutal.
Here's a tip that'll save you money: book a condo instead of a hotel room. Maui grocery prices are insane (think $8 for a gallon of milk), but being able to prepare some of your own meals can save serious cash.
Food: From Food Trucks to Fine Dining
Maui's food scene has exploded in recent years, and it's not just tourist food anymore. You've got world-class restaurants alongside local plate lunch joints, and both are worth your time.
Mama's Fish House gets all the attention, and yes, it's good, but it's also expensive and touristy. If you go, make reservations weeks in advance and prepare to spend $200+ for dinner for two.
For better value, try Leoda's Kitchen and Pie Shop on the way to Lahaina. Their pies are legendary, and the lunch menu is solid local-style food at reasonable prices.
The Paia Fish Market has the best fish tacos on the island, hands down. It's casual, reasonably priced, and the fish is always fresh.
And here's a local secret: the food trucks at Sugar Beach in Kihei serve some of the best local food on the island. My favorite is the Korean BBQ truck - massive plates for under $15.
Getting Around: What Actually Works
Renting a car on Maui is essential unless you're planning to never leave your resort. The island is too spread out and too beautiful to experience from a hotel room.
The main roads are generally good, but they can be crowded, especially the route between Kihei and Lahaina. Plan extra time for everything, and remember that locals drive differently here - more relaxed, more courteous. When someone lets you merge, give them the "shaka" (hang loose hand sign) - it's island courtesy.
Gas is expensive (usually $1+ more per gallon than the mainland), but distances are short. A tank of gas will last you several days of exploring.
My Perfect Maui Week
After all these years, I've figured out the perfect Maui rhythm. Day one is always beach time - I need to decompress and remember why I love this place. Day two is the Road to Hana (starting early). Day three is Haleakala, either sunrise or sunset depending on my energy level.
I always spend at least one day just driving around with no specific destination - maybe up to upcountry, maybe exploring West Maui's back roads. Some of my best Maui memories come from unplanned discoveries.
And I always end each trip the same way: sunset from Wailea Beach with a mai tai from one of the resort bars. It's touristy, it's expensive, but watching the sun sink into the Pacific while sipping a tropical drink... well, that's what Maui dreams are made of.
The Magic That Never Fades
Here's what I've learned from over 25 years of visiting Maui: this island has a way of getting into your soul. Maybe it's the perfect climate, or the incredible natural beauty, or just the way life seems to slow down to the right pace here.
I've seen Maui change dramatically over the years. More resorts, more traffic, higher prices. But the essential magic is still there. The trade winds still blow, the sunsets are still spectacular, and there's still something about this island that makes you believe in paradise.
Maui isn't perfect - no place is. It's expensive, it can be crowded, and yes, some areas feel over-developed. But when you're floating in those crystal-clear waters off Wailea, or watching the sunrise from Haleakala, or driving through the lush valleys of the Road to Hana, all of that fades away.
This island has a way of reminding you what's really important. It slows you down, opens your senses, and somehow makes you a better version of yourself. At least that's what it's done for me.
So pack your sunscreen, bring your sense of adventure, and get ready to fall in love. Just don't blame me when you start looking at real estate websites and dreaming about island life. Trust me, it happens to the best of us.
Aloha, and welcome to Maui. You're about to understand why they call it the Magic Isle.
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Oahu
* Maui
* "Big
Island" of Hawaii * Kauai
*
Molokai * Lanai
St Thomas
* St
John * St
Croix * Key
Largo * Key
West * Puerto
Rico * Guam
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